The facets of brilliant-cut diamonds, including round, princess and radiant shapes, are designed to maximize brightness, fire and scintillation. Marquise, pear and oval cuts combine brilliant facet patterns with unique shapes.
Guide to diamond shapes
popular AND timeless
Round
The 58 facets of a round-cut diamond reflect light off each other and through its top, resulting in brilliant flashes of fire and light. This shape offers the greatest flexibility in balancing carat, cut, color, clarity grade and price. It stands out in everything from classic solitaires to statement styles.
CLASSIC MEETS CONTEMPORARY
Princess
With a similar facet pattern to round-cut diamonds, the square princess cut gives maximum sparkle in a clean, contemporary shape. The corners may let a little color shine through, but the design helps hide inclusions. Want to emphasize (and protect) its best features? Try a modern bezel setting.
SOPHISTICATED SIMPLICITY
Emerald
It takes high grades for color and clarity to turn an emerald-cut diamond into a gleaming hall of mirrors. Long, step-cut facets run parallel to each other, making this geometric diamond perfect for Art Deco, minimalist and vintage-inspired settings. Wear it vertically to lengthen the fingers, or turn it on its side in a modern east-west design.
VINTAGE INSPIRED CHARM
Cushion
The cushion cut is one of the most historic diamond shapes and the most varied. Cushion-cut diamonds come in square and rectangular — also called “elongated,” shapes — both featuring the rounded corners behind the alternative name ‘pillow cut.’ Diamond cutters choose from multiple facet patterns, such as the classic chunky style or more modern ‘crushed ice’ look.
MODERN ROMANtic
Oval
This versatile engagement ring shape holds the spotlight in any setting, from vintage-inspired to the latest styles. Its elongated form makes the oval diamond shape look bigger than shapes with the same carat weight and has a lengthening effect on the finger. Try an on-trend twist with an east-west setting.
UNIQUELY ELEGANT
Pear
Combining the best features of the round and marquise shapes, pear-shaped diamonds are stunning in settings from minimalist solitaires to elaborate halos to vintage designs. With one end perfectly pointed and the other gracefully rounded, the asymmetrical pear shape requires excellent craftsmanship. You choose whether to wear the point up or down — it’s beautiful both ways.
DAZZLE AND DRAMA
Marquise
The marquise diamond started with a story: inspired by his lover’s perfect lips, King Louis XV commissioned this unique shape in the mid-1700s. Its elongated shape has more visible surface area than other cuts of the same weight, enhancing the finger-lengthening effect and creating the illusion of a larger diamond. The marquise shape is brilliant cut for sparkle and the pointed tips give it dramatic flair.
exceptional brilliance
Radiant
Aptly named radiant-cut diamonds combine the sophistication of emerald shapes with the audacious sparkle of brilliant cuts. Its facets help hide inclusions, so this shape is also known for remarkable beauty and value. Radiant diamonds are cut in square and head-turning rectangular shapes to fit a multitude of styles. Prong-style solitaire settings bring out their brilliance.
in love with love
Heart
Unapologetic romantics adore a heart-shaped diamond — the unmistakable symbol of true love. Balancing symmetry and maximizing brilliance takes expert craftsmanship, so the right ring style will showcase the heart shape and protect its delicate point. Whether you prefer a whimsical look, something sweet or going loud and proud, consider a prong or bezel setting.
ARCHITECTURAL INSPIRATION
Asscher
Designed in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, this geometric, step-cut shape was popularized by the Art Deco design movement. The Asscher’s X-shaped facets and deep, dimensional profile draw the eye inward with their hypnotic hall-of-mirrors effect. Heighten the effect with a three-stone setting or set it off in a solitaire.
Shapes with more surface area, such as oval, pear and marquise shapes, look bigger than other shapes with similar carat weights. Rectangular emerald and radiant-cut diamonds, with their trimmed corners, also appear larger.
Rectangular and elongated diamonds can have slimming, lengthening effects on the finger. Consider emerald and radiant cuts, elongated cushion cuts, and oval, pear and marquise diamonds.
Fancy shapes with pointed ends are more prone to cracking and chipping than others. Choosing a V-prong, bezel or halo setting can protect the vulnerable points on a marquise, pear, princess or heart-shaped diamond.
how do i choose a diamond shape?
Talk to an expert
Helzberg jewelry experts know that diamond shapes are about more than aesthetics. What kind of sparkle makes you light up? What’s your signature style? What story do you want to tell? We’ll help you ask the right questions to find the diamond shape that’s right for your ring.
